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Contents Volume 1

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Bra-makers Manual - Volume 1
  1. History of the Bra.......................1-12
    • The Bra Family Tree
    • So Who Invented the First Bra?
    • The Twenties and Thirties
    • The Rise of Elastic
    • Wartime and the Boomer Years
    • Burn That Bra!
    • That 70's Look
    • The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
    • The Return to Cleavage - 1990s

  2. Terms and Definitions.................13-23
    • Parts of a Bra
    • Types of Bras
    • Cups
    • Frames
    • Bridges
    • Straps
    • Bra Findings

  3. What is Good Fit?.......................24-33
    • What "is" Good Fit?
    • Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
    • Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
    • Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
    • Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
    • The Underwire System
    • International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart

  4. Making Fabric Choices...............34-50
    • Knits or Wovens
    • Knit terms
    • Percentage and Direction of Pull
    • Beefing up the Fabric
    • Fibre Content
    • Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
    • Fabric Quantities
    • Elastic Terms

  5. Obtaining the Pattern...................51-73
    • Home Sewing Patterns
    • Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
    • Breast Moulds
    • Bra Drafting Software
    • Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
    • Professional Bra Blocks
    • Terms used in Bra Design
    • Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
    • Evaluating a Bra Pattern
    • Observations about Bra Grading
    • An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
    • Grading One Size Larger

  6. Birth of a Bra....................................74-88
    • Tester Cups
    • Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
    • Fabric Selection
    • Framework
    • Closure
    • Seamline Variations
    • Bridge and Band Detail
    • Straps
    • Bra Design Sheet

  7. The Construction Process.............89-122
    • Setting Up to Sew
    • The Equipment
    • The Tools
    • Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
    • Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
    • Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
    • Alternate Methods of Construction
    • Alternate Methods of  a Front Strap Attachment
    • Alternate Methods of  a Back Strap Attachment
    • Choices for Wire Line Treatments
    • Alternate Band Construction
    • Common Mistakes Everyone Make

  8. Fitting to a Live Model...............123-145
    • Fittings Prior to Sewing
    • Assessing the First Fitting
    • Alterations to the Straps
    • Alterations to the Band
    • Alterations to the Bridge
    • Alterations to the Cups

    • Style Changes for Fashion...........146-182
    • Minor Style Changes
    • Major Style Changes
    • The Strapless Bra

  9. Style Changes for Special Needs...183-222
    • Support Challenges
    • Support Bras
    • Nursing Bras
    • Mastectomy Bras

  10. Appendix..............................223-230
    • Suggested Futher Reading
    • Wire Chart
    • Client Information and Design Sheet
    • Fitting and Style Change Drawings
    • List of Sample Providers

  11. Index........................231-235


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